Lead pencil shavings, soy and barbecue smoke as well as red and black currants characterize this brilliant effort, which has an expansive, full-bodied mouthfeel yet a sublime elegance and lightness of being. Dense ruby/purple, gorgeous purity and a long, long finish of close to 50 seconds characterize another brilliant effort from this classified growth in Pessac-Leognan. It should drink nicely for 25-30 years yet is surprisingly accessible even today.

*Cellar Selection* Continuing its impressive series of wines, this red from Malartic-Lagravière has all the structure and density of the vintage, packed with plum and black currant fruits. The acidity is almost sweet in its richness, blending easily into the dark texture. Age for many years.

Shows a hefty dose of toast, but remains polished and well-embedded in a core of crushed plum, steeped blackberry and cherry compote flavors. The long finish picks up briary energy, with anise and violet notes checking in. Best from 2016 through 2028.