A magnificent Champagne, one that is light, delicate, yet packed with character. It is beautifully balanced, with a bone-dry character, just softened by the toastiness that is developing. Expect this to age for many years. *Cellar Selection* (RV)

Richly textured, perfectly toasted from its 12 years on the lees (it was disgorged in 2008 and these later disgorged bottles have a little less dosage than the 2004 version). Elegant and precise but with layers of lemon curd creaminess that adds to the impressive complexity on display. This is 20 years old but still almost impossibly vibrant and fresh, and has many years ahead of it. (JA)

This remains one of my favorite all-time vintages of the Oenothèque series. An elegant if highly restrained nose displays cool nuances of green apple, a variety of citrus elements and discreet floral hints along with plenty of yeast character. There is superb precision to the equally cool and restrained middle weight flavors that dance across the palate thanks to the incredibly fine mousse that is at once firm but not aggressive on the notably dry but not really austere finale. I very much like the '96 Oenothèque as it's a wonderfully graceful effort that possesses impeccable balance and a refinement that it doesn't always achieve. In terms of where it is in its evolution, '96 is going to be one of those timeless vintages that will still be with us 30 years hence as I believe that it will continue to age effortlessly. For my taste this gorgeous effort has arrived at its peak though it should continue to hold here for years to come. In sum, this is flat out great and one of the greatest Champagnes of the modern era.