The 2007 Fonseca is maturing nicely, with a perfumed, high toned, rich bouquet of macerated black cherries, blueberry, creme de cassis and vanilla. The palate is very harmonious with plush dark cherry fruit, fresh fig, salted licorice and a supple, rounded, spicy finish that delivers wonderful purity and length. This is a sexy Fonseca, perhaps more generous and alluring than the 2009 – a quintessential Fonseca that should peak in 15-20 years time. (NM)

Fonseca's rich, Cima Corgo style creates a sleek and supple 2007, a wine that's both generous in its bosky richness of flavor and sophisticated in its detail. Oak softens and rounds it into a savory chocolate cake with layers of black cherry and orange citrus, the tannins more graphite firm than schisty hard. This may well be accessible at an early age, perhaps 12 to 15 years from the vintage, while it has the substance to last for 40 or more.

A subtle yet powerful young Vintage Port, with freshly sliced plum, citrus and mulberry on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a solid core of powerful tannins and a long, balanced finish. So tight and reserved. Muscularly structured. Best after 2017.