Squarely on the tropical side of the spectrum, with mango, papaya and pineapple fruit laced with a marmalade note. Long and very caressing through the finish, but never heady or overpowering, as orange pâte de fruit, ginger and singed almond accents lend cut and precision. Shows the heat of the vintage while retaining energy and drive. Impressive. *Collectible* (JM)

A blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, with 147 grams per liter of residual sugar, the 2003 Yquem is medium gold-colored. It has a tantalizing nose of baked apricots, pear tart, and ginger cake, leading to wafts of crème brulée, praline, and coriander seed, with a touch of fallen leaves. The palate is concentrated and rich, for sure, but there is wonderful energy and freshness here, offering a decadently opulent finish.

Mid amber. Vanilla cream, white chocolate, butter and orange zest. Succulent and clean on the finish. Reverberant acidity. Simply stunning. Could this be bettered? Hard to imagine how. 20/20 points (RH)