I had the great good fortune to schedule my visit to the offices of importer Louis-Dressner on the same day that the 2006 Dageneau wines cleared customs and were delivered to their offices. The 2006 Blanc de Fumé is Monsieur Dageneau’s basic bottling, if that term can be used without prejudice, and it is superb in 2006. The bouquet is deep, pure and vibrant, as it jumps from the glass in a mix of gooseberry, lime, peppery tones, fresh-cut grass, petrol and floral tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp and focused, with a lovely, “rounded” palate impression from its sojourn in oak, a fine core of fruit, and lovely purity and delineation on the long, complex and racy finish. It had been several vintages since I last tasted this bottling from Monsieur Dageneau, and the quality is significantly higher than was the case for the regular bottling a decade ago. Terrific wine. (Drink between 2008-2015) 92+