For years "Napa Cab" has been a wine-world euphemism for expensive. And if the wine wasn't expensive, it was usually lacking something. Enter the 2004 Conn Creek "Limited Release" Cabernet Sauvignon, which is neither expensive nor lacking. In fact, this wine, which is made by blending fruit from Conn Creek's Collins Vineyard, just north of St. Helena, with fruit from across the Napa Valley's diverse sub-AVAs. The resulting wine, which includes a little merlot, petit verdot and syrah, is layered like a stratified hillside. Sweet cherry and currant aromas are underscored by earthy sandalwood and dusty cocoa, while the palate delivers the same sweet, persistent fruit and spice with supple tannins and a good acidic backbone. Enjoy with vegetable lasagna, grilled steaks or roast pork tenderloin.