he mother-daughter team of Monique and Tessa Laroche keeps to a time-honored (and until the last 10-15 years, still widespread) Loire tradition of releasing wines only after some bottle age, as well as of offering selected older vintages. Their 2004 Savennieres - Roche Aux Moines delivers a pungent opening salvo of radish, lime zest, quarry dust, and white pepper, then saturates the palate with a palpably dense, creamy, yet bracingly high-acid matrix of quince paste and salty, stony mineral dust, then leaves the palate utterly stained with walnut, peach kernel, salt, and stone. Follow this for a decade or more: the 1994 is still available and its truffly, nutty, minerally-intense performance is riveting. (DS)