Picking began on 30 September for the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend from Léoville-Barton; after fermentation, the ageing was done in 60% new casks. The wine is now showing some development, with slightly fading colour and the beginning of cedar, smoke, and earth notes to the blackberry fruit. Although everything was balanced and reasonably elegant, it lacked the depth and concentration to carry it to the next level for many tasters at our horizontal tasting, but I had it third from the top in its flight. (CC)

This is an impressively endowed vin de garde that should age effortlessly for 20-30 years. How Anthony Barton continues to fashion uncompromisingly primordial Bordeaux that are always among the biggest and densest of all the St.-Juliens is beyond me, but he does it year in and year out. Moreover, when it’s time to set the price, he appears to have the consumer foremost in his mind. The 2004 is a classic Leoville-Barton meant for long aging. Concentrated, with loads of smoke, creme de cassis, forest floor, and earthy notes emerge from this impressive, but oh, so backward wine. (RP) 92+

The 2004 Léoville Barton is less opulent on the nose than the Langoa but offers a little more refinement and terroir expression. A touch of seaweed develops with time. The palate is fresh on the entry. It is one of the most saline Léoville Barton that gets the saliva flowing. It is classic old-school Anthony Barton with a judicious dab of black pepper and menthol furnishing the finish. Excellent. (NM)