Still closed and tight, the 2003 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is ruby to the rim in color and offers up smoked black fruits, assorted floral characteristics, licorice, truffle and big minerality to go with a full-bodied, dense and chewy palate feel. Turning more spice-driven with air, this beauty is just now entering the early stages of maturity and needs another 3-4 years in the cellar to fully shine. It should have another decade or so of prime drinking after that. Impressive! It is a big step up from the traditional cuvee. (JD)

Shows the ripe, opulent power of the vintage, with dark plum, raspberry confiture, hoisin sauce and tar notes that are held back by youthfully stubborn tannins. Yet the long, sinewy finish has impressive drive, with hints of chestnut, game and mineral. Patience required. *Collectible* (JM)

Given the mantra at the domaine that the Hommage à Jacques Perrin is only made in the finest vintages, I hardly expected to encounter a 2003 version, but the wine is really not bad at all and is now into its apogee. This is surprisingly low in octane for the vintage, coming in at the same 13.5 percent as the 2001 and 2004 iterations. The bouquet is really quite fine, wafting from the glass in a classy blend of dark berries, new leather, tree bark, woodsmoke, espresso and a lovely base of dark soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and wide open on the attack, with a good core, impressive soil signature and just a bit of backend tannin perking up the long and complex finish. A very pleasant surprise! 92+