The 2004 Kirschheck Spätlese from Helmut Dönnhoff is at its apogee of maturity right now and is drinking with distinction and succulence. The beautiful nose wafts from the glass in a complex blend of pear, white peach, bee pollen, iris blossoms, slate and still a hint of wild yeasts in the upper register. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, complex and seamlessly balanced, with bright acids, fine focus and grip and a long, lifted and zesty finish. Lovely juice.

Creamy, with apricot, black currant, grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavors, this white requires time to reveal its complex charms. Each sip is different, revealing another facet of this enticing wine. It's balanced and dense, with a lingering aftertaste. (BS)

Subtle, nuanced aromas of honeysuckle, pear, pineapple and lime. Pure and polished on the palate, delivering a velvety peach flavor and refined minerality. Finishes delicate and long. I slightly underrated this wine at release; it has matured nicely. (JP)