The the dense ruby/purple-colored 1998 The Steading (also a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and 20% Shiraz) boasts a creamy texture in addition to a glorious bouquet of black raspberries, kirsch, cassis, minerals, and licorice. Seductive, voluptuously-textured flavors unfold on the palate, and the texture is so plush that the taster feels his palate is resting on a water bed of overripe black fruits. Extremely long (45+ seconds), this sensational wine can be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. (RP)