Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. It was initially difficult to choose between the 1999 and 2002 La Tâche, but in the end the former just ascended to the stratosphere, while the latter simply cruised, albeit at a very high altitude. Now at 13 years of age, there is just a slight bricking on the rim. It feels a little more forward than the 1999–a stylish and personality-driven bouquet with predominantly red berry fruit interlaced with warm bricks and undergrowth (much more so of the latter compared to the 1999). The palate is beautifully balanced with exquisite tannin, perfect acidity and an effortless, you might say easygoing personality. That is deceptive because it is a complex and utterly harmonious La Tâche that is the epitome of elegance. Unlike the 1999, I would broach this now with an hour's decanting. Wonderful. (NM)