Rodolphe Péters' extraordinary perpetual reserve of grand cru Chardonnay makes up 50% of this blend, coming into its own with the crispy, energetic, if rather uneven, 2021 base vintage as the other half. A beautiful toasted almond, fresh lemon syrup and floral honey nose flows into a palate where fruit and ageing characters meet in perfect harmony. There's all the follow-through and narrow, brisk energy of the Côte des Blancs here, chalky and tense, yet it melts into deeper notions of nut oil and sourdough bread with a silky, flowing mousse. Perfectly pitched. (TH)