Readers looking for a St.-Estephe look-alike should check out this brooding, monster Cabernet Sauvignon from Bill Seavey and winemaker Philippe Melka. Tasting nearly the same as it did eight years ago, it reveals stunning, sweet chocolaty notes interwoven with notions of burning embers, loamy soil, black currants and forest floor. The complex aromatics are followed by a full-bodied, powerful, backward wine that still needs 8-10 years of cellaring. This blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot from the dry-farmed hillside vineyards of Bill and the late Mary Seavey is a 35-50-year wine. Only for true connoisseurs and those with patience! (RP) 94+