2000 Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac

Poured from bottle, the aromatic profile here is just so elegant and so pure. I find very precisely drawn blackcurrant and damson fruits, even though this is now more than twenty years of age, infused with notes of liquorice and crushed chalk. It has a remarkably youthful stance, and the palate seems intent on living up to the expectations set by the nose, as it is brilliantly composed, tense and perfumed, with superb drive and energy. Underneath this upper layer there is a bed of grip coming from a core of polished and integrated tannins which meld seamlessly with the substance of the wine. This feels so pure and complete, that it can be enjoyed now for that density, the purity, and those aromatics. But it clearly has decades ahead of it yet. This is stunning. Drink or hold.

The bouquet is amazingly open and forward at this stage, with a ripe black fruit character on the nose just beginning to open up and reveal savoury notes of leather, earth, and roast coffee. The texture is lush and dense, and there is plenty of body and structure to make this a wine for the long term. I visited the Château in July of 2000, and it was pouring with rain; that week, there was plenty of spraying for rot. Fortunately, it was hot and dry for the rest of the summer, and the fruit ended up healthy and ripe, although only 36% of the harvest made it into the grand vin, which was 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot. (CC)