This has matured, with flavors of red and black currant preserves that have stretched out, while bramble, anise, red and black tea and singed alder notes fill in through the plush yet well-defined finish. Gorgeous and on point now, but there's some serious latent depth here for those who want to push it further. *Collectible* (JM, Web-2021)

Fonseca produces its vintage Ports primarily from three distinct areas of the Cima Corgo sub-region: Cruzeiro and Santo António in the Pinhão valley, and Panascal in the Távora valley. The wines are still trodden by foot in the stone lagar tanks of Cruzeiro and Panascal. RM Classic nose, still restrained but with taut fruit underlying. Linear berry fruit flavours and firm tannins mid-palate, and a long, sinewy finish. A lovely wine just at the start of a long life. SJ Intense, ripe and minty. Quite full-bodied with ample balancing acidity. Alcohol is a bit too prominent on the finish, but admirable concentration. DW Pure-fruited with vibrant aromatic lift. A melange of black-berried fruit, woven with liquorice and spice. Attractive physicality and freshness balance the burly nature of this wine. (Panel Tasting)

Saturated medium-deep ruby. Exotic aromas of black fruit liqueur, road tar, smoked meat and hot stones; this reminded me of a great ripe-year Hermitage. Hugely rich and dense, with compelling sweetness and pliancy but also sound framing acidity. Extremely youthful and very long on the aftertaste. Finishes with suave but strong tannins and excellent grip and thrust. Like the best examples of the vintage, this won't injure your palate if you broach a bottle today, but it's structured for extended aging. (ST)