Billecart-Salmon's 2019-based Brut Réserve continues the impressive rebirth of this cuvée, showing more focus, length and sapidity than previous versions. The dosage has dropped to 3g/L (from 9g/L in 2016), but the delicious nut oil and brown bread reserve wine depth props up roasted lime and apricot fruit. One to watch. 40% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. (TH)

At the start of last year, Billecart-Salmon began listing ID numbers on their bottles and including info on the wines. The NV Champagne Brut Reserve is the current release of this cuvée and is based around the 2019 vintage. A straw hue, it is well-detailed and on the savory side, with expressive notes of orange pith, crushed stones, fresh nectarine, and a hint of jasmine green tea. It’s medium-bodied, with a lovely rounded feel through the mid-palate and a silky, stony texture, and Its mousse is elegant and pillowy. As mentioned last year, readers should not sleep on this cuvée, which is coming together very nicely. Drink now or over the coming 6-8 years. (AF) 92+

Light burnished gold with a fine, evanescent bead and finished with a three gram per liter dosage, the Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV is a 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay blend based on the 2019 vintage with a dominant 62% of reserve wines, the oldest of which is from 2006. From this deep bench of vinous blending emerge perfumed aromas of poached pear, persimmon, dried iris blooms, and a whiff of toast comingling with smoky and bready autolytic notes. Medium-bodied and round, the palate has a vinous texture with ample ripe fruit sweetness, vivacious acidity to balance and grace notes of fresh lemon to add brightness to the finish. (SM)