2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Les Santenots du Milieu"

The domaine's holdings of Santenots are sizeable at 3.9ha, although the younger vines are used to make Dominique Lafon's village Volnay. This richer, denser, sappier wine has subtle reduction with some spice and texture from 10% whole bunches, accompanied by filigree tannins and a core of plum and dark cherry fruit. (TA)

The 2017 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru was opened by Dominique Lafon just because he wanted to compare with the ensuing two vintages. Who was I to stop him? It is very different in style from those vintages: redder fruit, more transparency, charming, and it wears its heart on its sleeve. The palate is full of slightly peppery red berry fruit, saline and spicy with good grip and a long raspberry and wild strawberry finish. So unbelievably drinkable, even at this early stage you’ll finish bottle. (NM)