2002 Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (3L)

Surprisingly lively and fresh, this is still a seriously impressive wine. The high proportion of Semillon is now coming to dominate the Sauvignon, to give a wine that is finely shaped, full of creamy flavors of wood and some white peach. In 10 years, this will still be fresh, in 15 just mature. (RV)

Drinking at point, the 2002 Château Haut-Brion is a beautifully pure, layered, classic wine from this château. Healthy plum-hued with very little bricking, it has a textbook Haut-Brion nose of ripe black fruit, smoky tobacco, scorched earth, and spices. These all carry to a medium to full-bodied Haut-Brion that's balanced, has ripe, polished tannins, solid mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It's one of the quintessential Graves that grows on you over the course of an evening.