2004 Domaine Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru "Valmur"

rom the Montée de Tonnerre on, the impression is that one is at the grand cru level in the Raveneau cellars, and then one actually tastes one of the grand crus and realizes the mistake. The 2004 Valmur is outstanding, jumping from the glass in a blend of riper fruit tones of pear and apple, a bit of lemon, beautiful, kaleidoscopic soil tones, hints of mint and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine starts out generous and full, and then firms up significantly from the mid-palate back. The finish is eventually all minerals and structure, and did I mention extremely long. A superb example of Valmur in the making.

Cool and precise, the 2004 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is a youthful classic, offering up pretty much everything one could want in a 13-year-old Valmur. Opening in the decanter with a nose of green apple, iodine, oyster shell and a touch of smoky reduction, on the palate the wine is full-bodied, three-dimensional and rock solid at the core, with excellent concentration and cut and a long, penetrating finish. (WK)