1993 Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes

After years of patiently waiting the nose is finally beginning to display some secondary development with its crystalline essence of black cherry pinot, spice, floral and discreet earth aromas. The palate impression is one of serious size, weight, power and punch with the still moderately structured and almost thick flavors being supporting by still firm but ripe tannins that are admirably buffered by plenty of dry extract on the massively persistent finish. This is flat out great and still youthful though as I noted there are now signs of maturity, indeed this could be drunk with pleasure though to my taste a few more years of cellaring would be beneficial. In my view, this is the best de Vogüé Musigny since at least '71 and it is a monument in the making as it will live for 50 years without breathing hard. Multiple, and largely consistent, notes though a few bottles have seemed excessively hard with a markedly dry finish. Still, the five most recent bottles were almost perfect with a silky mouth feel and well-integrated tannins.

The 1993 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru was a real surprise given that I have meted out criticism for the wines from this era. It has a mesmerizing nose with wild strawberry, raspberry and rose petal scents that feel youthful and exuberant. The palate is fleshy and beautifully balanced, supple and has delightful, seductive rondeur. It crescendos towards the finish that is armed with killer delineation, completing perhaps the best Musigny that de Vogüé oversaw that decade. (NM)