2008 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club Millesimé de Collection Champagne

The best-value sparkling wine of any kind that I have tasted in the past five years. In all its raw, youthful innocence, this is the epitome of introverted, tightly coiled restraint. A beguiling transparency of pure acid drive propels an incredible finish that splashes long and strong with breathtaking, scintillating, crystalline minerality. This is a cuvée of effortless poise and boundless energy. (TS)

This is in fact the Special Club bottling, designated as “Millesime de Collection”. A blend of Chardonnay from Cramant (54%), Chouilly (31%) and Cuis (15%), and also available in magnum. Pierre Gimonnet’s polished style combines with the vintage nicely. Mouth-watering acidity greets you on the attack, the tension continues through to mid-palate and beyond. The initial astringency has subsided a touch, and the fruit is starting to build. An embryonic Champagne that will take a decade to come around. Possibly the ultimate expression of vintage 2008 Chardonnay. Identical score in magnum.