1978 Heitz Cellar "Fay" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

I have now had the pleasure to drink the 1978 Heitz Cellars’ Fay Vineyard bottling on three occasions in the last couple of years, and it is a beautiful example of this top notch vintage. The bouquet soars from the glass in a very pure and à point mélange of black cherries, chipotle peppers, eucalyptus, tobacco, a nice touch of chocolate, Rutherford spice tones, woodsmoke and just a hint of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very suave on the attack, with a great core of ripe fruit, lovely soil tones, impeccable focus and balance, melting tannins and a very long, tangy and vibrant finish. Like so many of the very best examples of the 1978 cabernets, the Fay Vineyard bottling is at its apogee, but shows absolutely no signs of slowing down anytime in the next several decades. This was a very fitting close to this brief, but glorious chapter in the Heitz Cellars’ single vineyard cab bottlings.

In a flight of wines from Heitz, the 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon Fay Vineyard impresses for its balance and harmony. Tonight it comes across as more complete than the 1973 and 1975 Martha's Vineyard. I come back to the 1978 Fay throughout the evening and it is always superb. (AG)