2001 Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

As with the 2000, this is tasting exceptional right now, and unlike many 2001s, does not seem to be dipping in its 25th year. Crushed roses, peonies, raspberry and blackberry fruits, mint leaf and crayon, totally delicious. Cool spring, great August and September. Harvest September 27 to October 9, 35.2hl/h yield, 3.87ph, Jacques Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner and estate director, Christophe Capdeville technical director. 70% new French oak for ageing.

Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château, the 2001 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. It has impressive lift on the nose: blackberry, raspberry and minerals, a bouquet that is captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a core of black fruit, spice and licorice with a lovely peacock's tail on the finish. This is a Margaux with a skip in its step, more light-hearted and carefree than the 2000. I have always adored this wine and it is showing extremely well with 14 years on the clock. This is quite simply superb. (NM)