1996 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Complex nutty perfume. Great sweetness and intensity in the mouth; atypically spicy for this wine. High acidity provides the fruit with superb definition, but sheer extract gives it a layered, tactile quality and tempers the acidity. Amazingly expressive for a wine so unevolved. Very long and classy on the aftertaste. (ST)

Although not quite as ethereal as the 1992, the 1996 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet does not disappoint, and at 18 years young, will continue to offer great pleasure for many years. It has a tangible mineral intensity, just a slight reduction that seems to blow away, followed by fabulous granitic scents that are stern and terse, almost aloof. The palate is underpinned by a killer line of acidity and wonderful salinity. Again, there is just a touch of reduction here, but that does not detract from a magnificent, majestic Bienvenue that is perhaps only just beginning to hits its stride. (NM)