2021 Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

This wine stands out for vibrancy, balance, juiciness and crunch. Medium- to full-bodied, which is impressive for this lighter year with higher acidity. I love the balance and prettiness of the wine. Fine-grained tannins. 74% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 2% cabernet franc, 1% carmenere and 1% petit verdot.

The 2021 Brane-Cantenac is a classy, elegant wine. The aromatics alone are so enticing. Crushed flowers, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, rose petal and cedar open first. The 74% Cabernet Sauvignon is a bit higher than in most years, which comes through in the wine's aromatic and structural profile. The 2021 is quiet and understated. Élevage was 18 months in 100% new French oak, but the wood is not at all evident—an important and positive sign regarding the wine's overall balance. Even so, the 2021 is a subdued Brane-Cantenac, one that needs time in bottle to shine at its brightest. (AG)