2017 Labégorce, Margaux

Under the helm of Marjolaine de Coninck, who arrived from Fonplegade in 2009, this estate has been firing on all cylinders, and they've made a beautiful 2017 Chateau Labegorce. Based on 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that spent 14 months in 45% new oak, its deep purple/plum color is followed by a complex, medium to full-bodied, seamless Margaux that has complexity as well as depth and richness. With lots of cassis fruit and notes of sandalwood and spice, they’ve done a fabulous job with the tannins, and it has a great mid-palate and outstanding purity. You’d be excused for drinking bottles today, yet it should benefit from short-term cellaring and evolve for 15 years. This estate covers 65 hectares (there are 53 hectares under vine) located just north of the town of Margaux, on the plateau just across the road from Lascombes. If you haven’t tried these wines in a while, now is an excellent time to give them another look.

The 2017 Labégorce is powerful yet nuanced, and wonderfully complete. Cedar, tobacco, mint, dried herbs and licorice grace this wine of tremendous complexity. While it is towering in its size, richness and intensity, the 2017 is also surprisingly elegant. Creamy, ample and flavorful, this is a very good wine with rather pretty floral notes that grace the exquisite finish. (AG)