1970 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac

Deep garnet; fragrant tar and black truffle nose; extremely concentrated; big and mouth-filling, with very dense cassis flavor; enormous, generous fruit; a voluptuous claret.

A perfect example of the magic of First Growths, even when they were Second Growths at the time, as this vintage was three years before Mouton was promoted. I bought this wine at auction for around €200, and it was a gamble as to its condition as the label was pretty much non-existent, but the risk more than paid off. Shared with dear friends at one of my favourite restaurants in Bordeaux (Ressources), this was mouthwatering, moreish, delicate but never wavering, fine tannins, brambled fruit, a shot of incense, liqourice, graphite, fully in its drinking window but not yet flagging. Wonderful.