2005 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Rich with the perfume of fat, ripe black cherries, this pinot is bosomy and seductive. It's clean, smooth and simple, with tannins adding a bit of earthy grit to bring it in line for rare roast beef.

If a touch less intense and not quite as nuanced as the rest of its kin, this well-defined, eminently fruity offering is nonetheless long on sweet cherries and is given a lift in overall richness by nicely placed oak. It is medium-full-bodied, a bit plump to start and finished with balanced acidity, and, while it is unfair to call it simple just now, it seems likely to develop a little more reach and complexity with age. *One Star*