1985 Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Léognan

The 1985 Château Haut Brion Blanc is candidate for the best dry white Bordeaux produced that decade - period. Having tasted this nectar two or three times in recent months, I can vouch for its extraordinary intensity on the nose: candied orange peel, citrus lemon, cold wet limestone and honeysuckle notes that shimmer in the glass. It almost has a Chablis-like penetration—imagine if Raveneau made white Bordeaux. The palate is perfectly balanced and after 30 years, it as fresh as a daisy, citrus fresh, with a killer line of mineralité, squeezed lime and an almost slate-like note (try licking some to see what I mean—no one will look). The tension, the depth and length of this Haut Brion Blanc are as good as you will find...if you can find it nowadays. Simply breathtaking, anyone with bottles in their cellar will be handsomely rewarded for their patience. (NM)

The 1985 Haut-Brion Blanc is one of my favourite vintages in recent years. This bottle does not disappoint. Youthful in colour, it maintains that disarming intensity on the nose that knocks you sideways: cold wet limestone, sea cave, honeysuckle and this bottle showing a touch of quince. Previously I made comparisons towards Chablis, although this maybe too rich and decadent. The palate offers stunning balance with citrus lemon and that killer, flint-like tension that drives the finish. Ah, now we are talking Chablis! It is a phenomenal, almost effervescent, life-affirming, stellar Haut-Brion Blanc that stands alongside the 1989 as one of the best ever. (NM)