1982 Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac

A demure yet confident beauty, the 1982 Lafite is in its prime and will delight anyone privy to an audience. Scents of tobacco, sandalwood and spice box waft with increasing intensity as this sits in the glass, then it floats across the palate leaving a persistent trail of stony minerals: flint and graphite along with preserved cherries are laced with sweet, smoky incense, and radiant acidity gives a perception of weightlessness while shedding light on the wine’s depths. So effortlessly and elegantly framed, and as exquisitely perfect as this is now, there is nothing to suggest it will fade any time soon. (MM)

As is often the case with Lafite, this was the most reserved of the five 1855 1st Growths on opening, showing rose petals and finessed red fruits. It then performed a sleight of hand in the glass, slowly but surely building in concentration and pleasure, layering tobacco, slate, smoked earth, sweet blackberry puree, pencil lead, oyster shell and mint leaf. I last tasted it two years ago, and it has barely budged since, suggesting that there remains many decades ahead. Effortlessly drinkable, a vintage that more than lives up to the legend. Estate director Jean Crété recorded that it was aged in 'primarily new oak', although was not more specific than that (somewhere north of 70-80% is likely). 40hl/h yield, around 10% higher than average, with harvest beginning on September 16, the same date as in 1976. Baron Eric de Rothschild owner, and this was the last year with Emile Peynaud as consultant. Charles Chevallier would also join the following year, in 1983, as deputy technical director.