2009 Linne Calodo "Nemesis" Paso Robles Rhône Blend

Brilliant ruby color. Sexy blackberry, cherry-cola, potpourri and incense aromas, with a high-pitched note of black pepper. At once dense and lively, offering dark berry and bitter cherry flavors and a chewy texture. Floral and spice notes gain strength with air and carry through a very long, sappy, focused finish. There are very suave tannins here but they make a late appearance and play nicely with the densely packed fruit. (JR)

The Syrah-based 2009 Nemesis boasts gorgeous inner perfume to match its expressive dark fruit. The Syrah here is especially fruit-driven. It shows great intensity, with veins of underlying minerality that gives the wine freshness and lift. The blend is 87% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 3% Grenache, from Booker, Denner and Linne Calodo’s own estate vineyards. Nemesis is hugely enjoyable today for its voluptuous fruit. I wouldn’t wait too long to indulge in the wine’s pure pleasure. This set of wines from proprietor Matt Trevisan was among the most impressive I tasted in Paso Robles. The wines seem to have a bit more energy and focus than in the past. Native fermentations and a generally artisan, hand-made approach informs a style full of personality and character. Some of the wines are aged partly in American oak, which works beautifully for this fruit. Trevisan describes 2010 as a fairly regular October harvest. (AG)