2018 Canon, St-Émilion

I first tasted the 2018 as a barrel sample at the estate, back in early 2019, and than again shortly after bottling. This, however, is the best showing yet, Tasted alongside the 2020, 2019 and 2017, this explodes with a huge intensity on the nose, with a desiccated intensity to the fruit profile, packed with dried black cherries, blackcurrants, olives and liquorice, along with little floral notes of rose and black pepper. The palate impresses with its effortless and seamless concentration, showing huge breadth, with a dark and brooding intensity which does more than match the aromatic energy, laced with blackberry, liquorice, tar and black bean. The tannins are imposing and yet ripe, tightly knit, flawlessly integrated and the whole palate feels correctly poised despite its formidable structure and breadth. What a simply stunning wine – one of the absolute stars of the tasting.

A beautiful Canon that performs the 360-degree trick in your mouth of expanding up, down and out. Of course a little austere right now at this young age, but already walking the tightrope towards richness; the creaminess in the texture becomes clear after 20 minutes in the glass. This has salinity, purity, precision and grip, showing its distinct personality and its ability to draw juice and mouthwatering expression from the fruits. (JA)