2004 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Reticent but promising blackberry and black currant fruit as well as licorice aromas jump from the glass of this inky/purple-colored 2004. Rich and broad with sweeter tannins than one expects in a ten-year-old Dunn Cabernet, it reveals impressive richness, power and purity, but is still an adolescent in terms of its evolution. Slightly more evolved than the Dunn Cabernets of the early and mid-1980s, it can be drunk now or cellared for another 20-25 years. (RP)

Bright, saturated dark red to the rim. Reticent but pure aromas of black cherry, blackberry, mocha, espresso, spices, licorice and minerals; more medicinal on the nose than the '03 or '02. Utterly fine-grained and seamless; again with a plumpness of texture (like the '03 and '02) that parallels its higher alcohol. In fact, this is the first wine in this collection that hints at alcoholic warmth. Finishes chewy and powerful, without quite the velour or sweetness of the '02. Perhaps a touch chocolatey and monolithic, with the tannins building and drying the tongue. This needs to lose some of its baby fat and gain in refinement but I'm not convinced that it will be a long-distance runner. But spicy from start to finish: am I underrating this wine? (ST)