2017 Domaine Georges Roumier Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru "Clos de la Bussière"

“Ripe, exuding blackberry and blueberry fruit, this red is dense, with a slightly dusty quality to the tannins. Earth and iron accents add depth as this stays defined and extends on the fresh, mouthwatering finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. (BS)” (03/2020)

“Purchased by Christophe Roumier's father in 1953, this 2.59ha clos is a monopole holding. Made with 35% whole bunches and aged in 25% new wood, it has the brightness, balance and freshness of the domaine's Chambolle village, but with a bit more tannin and weight. Sappy, sweet and refreshing. Drinking Window 2022 - 2027. (TA)” (10/2018)

“The inherent elegance of the best 2017s is very much in evidence in the young Clos de la Bussière from this vintage. The black fruity bouquet delivers a lovely constellation of black cherries, sweet dark berries, bitter chocolate, pigeon, a complex base of soil and a bit of bonfire in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full, long and sappy at the core, with fine soil signature, suave tannins and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. This will need a full decade to really hit its apogee, but it is going to be one of the best Clos de la Bussière vintages in the last twenty years. (Drink between 2027-2065)” (12/2018)

“The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is a real success, and decidedly reminiscent of the domaine's excellent 2007. Offering up aromas of sweet red berries, warm spices, peony and subtle soil tones, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a fine core of fruit that cloaks its rich but fine-grained tannic chassis. While it's an elegant rendition of the Clos de la Bussière, this always needs bottle age. The 2017 vintage is very strong for the Domaine Georges Roumier, with the wines somewhat evocative of their 2007 counterparts—wines which were, as Roumier followers will be keenly aware, very much among the best of the vintage in that year. Elevage is a leisurely affair chez Roumier, with comparatively late malolactic fermentation, so the true extent of what Christophe Roumier has achieved this year will only be apparent once the wines are in bottle, but the only thing that's in question is just how good the wines will be. As I reported when I tasted these same wines earlier this year, yields in 2017 averaged a modest 32 hectoliters per hectare across the board, with a larger crop at the village level and less in the premiers and grands crus. Thankfully, after several successive small crops, the generous 2017 and 2018 vintages have at last left a little less empty space in the Roumier cellar, which is great news. (WK)” (01/2020)

“The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru has a broody blackberry and briar bouquet, nicely defined and très Morey. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry, a fine bead of acidity tying everything together. An elegant, refined Morey-Saint-Denis with an unprepossessing finish that is just a joy. (NM)” (01/2019)

“An unusually spicy nose reflects notes of earth and a whiff of game on the black raspberry and violet scents. There is a fleshy, even velvety, mouthfeel to the nicely voluminous medium-bodied flavors that flash focused power on the ever-so-mildly rustic and beautifully complex finale that delivers sneaky good length. This youthfully austere effort is finer than it usually is and should reward extended keeping. *Burghound Outstanding!*” (01/2020)