1961 Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac

This vintage came 12 years before Mouton Rothschild was promoted to First Growth in 1973, and it clearly shows that it was already more than equalling its future siblings. Still rich ruby in colour, a touch earthy on first aromatics but settles quickly in the glass, and as it opens it transforms into a gorgeous finessed glass with peony and crushed rose aroamtics, gentle cigar box, campfire, black truffle and sofly-spoken brambled fruits. Fine tannins remain engaged, and this wine still has plenty to say. The bottle that I had ex-cellar from Mouton at the end of 2023 was just a little more concentrated, so inevitably storage comes into play with bottles of this age, but it's a delight. Baron Philippe de Rothschild at the helm, with a stunning black, red and gold label by Georges Mathieu.

Huge, cedary, cassis, lead pencil, menthol-like aromas soared from the glass. The black/purple color revealed no signs of lightening or amber at the edge. Full-bodied, rich, and super-intense, this was a profound bottle of 1961 Mouton that would have stood up against the compelling 1959. (RP)