1982 Gruaud Larose, St-Julien

One of the most powerful, massive wines of the vintage is the 1982 Gruaud Larose, a full-bodied, broad and concentrated effort redolent of ripe black fruits, loamy soil, smoked meats, leather, espresso roast and hints of cigar wrapper. Rich, layered and expansive, its deep core of ripe, fleshy fruit is framed by sweet, powdery tannins. As ever with the wines of the Cordier era, the fly in the ointment is that the wine's wild, somewhat animal profile is strongly marked by the presence of Brettanomyces, yet the 1982's intensely characterful, singular style means that I am personally able to overlook that defect. Still youthful, and actually evolving more slowly than the brilliant 1986, this is likely to number among the longer-lived wines of the vintage. (WK)

The 1982 Gruaud Larose has long been a “winner” in this competitive vintage. Gorgeous scents of sloes, loam, leather and wild heather emerge and become more minty as this wine unfurls in the glass. There is just a patina of Brettanomyces in this 1982, but like a dozen or so previous bottles, I have not found it detracts from overall olfactory pleasure. The palate is just as irresistible as the aromatics. With lovely balance and slightly grainy tannins, this bottle is perhaps slightly more youthful than others. It is very focused with sage and bay leaf mixed with black fruit towards the finish, tobacco and graphite combining wonderfully towards the finish. Superb. (NM)