Mostly (83%) Grampians fruit, though there are contributions from Heathcote, Swan Hill and Bendigo. This wine is often a happy hunting ground for value, but this release is a particularly good version of it. It's alive with peppery spice and fluid with plum-shot flavour, and while it's medium in weight (at most) it feels silken and satisfying. The spice notes here, wow, they're gorgeous. *Silver*

Australia's answer to Northern Rhône Syrah? Like sniffing the innards of a pepper grinder, this aromatic, highly spicy Shiraz also comes with a good dose of blue- and red-berry fruit, terracotta and an iodine-and-warm earth note. There's power and plushness to palate, but is framed in spicy, chiseled tannins and just enough freshness to keep the mouth watering. One of Aus's great Shiraz bargains. *Best Buy* (CP)

An interregional blend that is always reliable, while stamped with shiraz's cooler personality of mace, menthol and red fruits. Mid-weighted of feel, with a slight lack of concentration. Yet the end result is savory, poised and with that, digestible. A really versatile wine at the table. Drink or hold. Screw cap.