Lambrusco is one of the most popular wines in Italy this time of year, but it’s a much-misunderstood category in the States. This is mostly due to the ocean of cheap, sweet versions that were popular here in the 1970s and 1980s, plus a perplexing diversity of grape varieties, styles, and colors. Lambrusco has half a dozen different appellations, half a dozen different grape varieties, and ranges from the extremely high yields in the flatlands to lesser yields in the rolling hills of Castelvetro. It takes a bit of work to figure it out, but wow — once you try a couple, you will be hooked. The Lambrusco Sorbara wines have more depth, generally darker colors, and are boldly flavored. I find the Sorbara Lambruschi are sensational with Thai or Indian cuisine, as their bold flavors hold up well to the spicy elements. (Greg St. Clair, K&L Italian wine buyer)