Knockout pure-but-reticent nose melds deep yellow fruits, oak char, baking spices and minerals (this always needs a lot more time than the Chevalier-Montrachet here, notes Frédéric Weber). Wonderfully silky and rich but light on its feet; a serious mouthful of lemon zest, crushed stone and spices with outstanding focus and supporting salty minerality. Really shines today for its inner-mouth tension and explosive palate-dusting finish. Bouchard's Montrachet production was off by more than 50% in 2016 (to around 23 hectoliters per hectare), but the Cabotte was less affected by frost, producing three barrels, vs. four in 2017. This wonderfully plush, fine-grained, concentrated wine is built for a long and eventful evolution in bottle.95+ (ST)