The NV Fino Gran Barquero is aged 8-10 years under flor, pushing the limits of biological aging, which gives it a different profile: It is a big step up in quality, but it would probably be better with less filtration. It has a fresh, flowery nose hinting at some citric and even tropical fruits intermixed with the dry hay, straw, yeasty and chalky notes. It has the profile of a serious, first-class Fino that shows in a clean, pungent, balanced palate, with incisive flavors, supple and long. A good-value, great Fino that could develop some more complexity in bottle. Drink 2013-2016. (LG)