Red raspberry and red currant combine with blond tobacco and beef marrow and high-toned herbs on the nose and palate of Lignier’s 2008 Clos De La Roche, which exhibits even more polish and finer tannins to the corresponding Clos St.-Denis. Pure red berry fruit, savory meatiness, and fascinating variations on salt, crushed stone, peat and humus inform an impressively penetrating and persistent finish. This should prove handsome for a decade or more. (DS)