This really shows the heart of 2016 in the northern Médoc - it has the triumvirate of good acidity, good tannins and good fruit. It's a little austere and is going to take its time to truly get going. A second bottle proved much better for depth, as we queried rusticity on the nose of the first bottle. The second instead showed a hawthorn, hedgerow character and gorgeously rich black fruits, concentrated and focused, and given complexity by tobacco and spice. It's the first time that four grape varieties have been used in the grand vin - Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot, plus 3% Cabernet Franc. Eric Boissenot consults. (JA)

An estate that’s unquestionably on the upswing, the 2016 Château Pédesclaux is made from 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc that spent 18 months in 60% new oak. In the past, the wines from this estate have been slightly chunky, but that started to change around 2014, and I think this 2016 is the best yet. Beautiful blue fruits, violets, spicy oak, and a touch of minerality all emerge from this medium-bodied Pauillac, which has fine, polished tannins, a seamless texture, and a great finish. With purity and finesse as well as richness and depth, it’s already reasonably approachable today, but it’s going to evolve for three decades or more.

The 2016 Pédesclaux is the first vintage to include all four grape varieties planted in the vineyard, according to Emmanuel Cruse. It has a very focused, concentrated bouquet of blackberry, graphite, hints of tobacco and a slight granitic scent - très Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannin, impressive depth, gentle grip and a killer line of acidity. I adore the harmony and precision of this Pédesclaux, which is probably the best to date. Highly recommended. 13.3% alcohol. (NM)