Tasted at the Vintners Company’s 650th anniversary celebration at Vintners Hall, the Fonseca 1970 was the finest bottle I have encountered. The bouquet opens beautifully with heady scents of clove, ginger, small red cherries, bergamot and allspice, displaying exquisite definition and harmony. The palate follows suit with lovely balance and poise in the mouth, notes of kirsch, shaved ginger and walnut building to an opulent, viscous finish that lacquers the mouth. Yet this bottle shows more control than the bottle tasted four years ago. The 1970 Fonseca is in a very nice place at the moment. You should join it. Tasted May 2013. (NM)

Very deep crimson only just turning to ruby. Sweet - much more concentrated and vigorous than most. Very big and bold and impressive. A certain wild gaminess on the nose. Perhaps not the most subtle but certainly arresting. Rather too hard on the finish at the moment and, apparently, merely in middle age. You’ve got to admire it… Definite alcohol on the finish. A little bit exhibitionistic. 17/20