Closed yet concentrated and silky, this takes its time and although there is balance, it's certainly not generous. The high acidity is notable but it softens, deepens, and opens on the palate, revealing black fruits held in a chargrilled frame. Matured in 50% new French and Austrian oak. (JA)

Excellent quality, this is one of the high points of the past few decades of Lafon Rochet, demonstrating the huge potential of the site. Fine but firm tannins, plenty of juice and lift, mandarin peel, graphite, cassis, blueberry puree, cassis and loganberry fruits. Bitter dark chocolate also with a tannic frame that hugs without constricting. Harvest September 29 to October 20. 40ha, deep gravels and clay, 30 year old average vine age. Basile Tesseron owner at the time (now sold to Jacky Lorenzetti).

An explosion of all manner of black berries with discreet, toasty and smoky oak, makes this a joyful St.-Estèphe. Then the great balance of ripeness, lively acidity and velvety tannins come together beautifully at the elegant finish to make this the best wine from this producer in modern times.