** Best Buy ** Dean Hewitson contracts the fruit from the Old Garden Vineyard in Rowland Flat, where the Mourvedre vines date to 1853. The Koch family, who tends these ancient vines, selected cuttings from them in 1996 to plant, head prune and dry farm in the same configuration as Old Garden. The result, in the cool 2011 vintage, is completely intoxicating. An honest take on Mourvedre's tension between frunk and brilliance, aone side of this wine is blood and iron, the other side is a fresh cranberry crush of flavor. The only sign of the youth of the wine is a steeliness in the tannins, if you can stand to quibble with such a delicious, bright and spicy red.