Trimbach’s “classic” 2005 Gewürztraminer offers a model of restraint and refreshment that I can only wish more growers would emulate. Smelling of smoked meats, celery seed and sea breeze, it is positively bracing even before it hits the palate, where a certain oily richness does not equate to heaviness nor preclude vivacity. Celery root, peach, and smoked meats dominate the finish of this truly ripe, dry-tasting, yet only 13.5% stylistic statement. (DS)