I must say, served against Pavie-Macquin and Cheval Blanc of the same vintage, one could argue that Becot is the most pleasurable 98 at the moment. Superb delineation and vivacity on the nose, particular compared to the Pavie-Macquin. A very pure bouquet, with blackberries, blueberries and a touch of black plum. It is also beginning to reveal a sense of minerality with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied , does not have particularly great depth, but is very well balanced, well-poised with a pretty, floral finish. Medium-length. (NM)

The 1998 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 29 September and 5 October. The colour is more youthful than either the 1995 or 1996 and the nose certainly more vibrant: cranberry and strawberry fruit, fine purity and well integrated oak. There is a sense of purpose about these aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fine cohesion and plenty of melted red berry fruit laced with tobacco, allspice and white pepper. (NM)

Red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of cherry, raspberry, cedar, licorice, tar and espresso. Fleshy and pliant, with ripe acids brightening the complex, fruit-driven flavors of cherry, raspberry, violet, licorice and mint. Not as powerful or ripe as the '00, but this is a lovely, elegantly styled St. Emilion with considerable class. Finishes with suave tannins that reach the front teeth. (ST)